Convert HEIC to JPG. Right in your browser.

When JPG isn't the best choice

JPG is the safe default: every phone, browser, printer, and upload form accepts it. But it's lossy and has no transparency. If your image has a transparent background — a logo, a sticker, an icon — JPG flattens it onto a solid color, so convert to PNG instead. For screenshots and sharp text, PNG also keeps edges crisp where JPG can smear them.

One thing to know: HEIC is already a compressed format, so converting to JPG re-encodes the photo once. At our default quality the difference is invisible for normal photos, but if you plan to edit and re-save repeatedly, keep an original copy.

How this compares to the other converters

Want the smallest file for a website? HEIC to WebP is typically 25–35% smaller than JPG at the same quality. Need transparency or lossless quality? HEIC to PNG. Sending photos as one document to print or email? HEIC to PDF bundles them into a single file. Just want to look at a .heic without converting? The HEIC viewer opens it in place.

All of them run entirely in your browser — same privacy, same batch support, no uploads.

What the converted JPG keeps, and what it drops

The conversion decodes the HEIC to pixels and re-encodes those pixels as JPG. Inspect the output and you find exactly two metadata segments: a JFIF header and the ICC colour profile. There is no Exif block — no GPS coordinates, no capture timestamp, no camera model, no lens or exposure data. Colours stay correct because the profile survives; everything the phone recorded about where and when you were does not.

That is usually the outcome people want when they are about to attach a photo to a forum post, a marketplace listing, or a form. It is worth knowing in advance, though, because it cuts both ways: the JPG has no capture date, so some galleries will sort a converted batch by download time rather than by when the photos were taken. If the dates matter, keep the HEIC originals — which you still have, since nothing here modifies your input files.

Picking a quality number

The slider defaults to 92, which is high enough that the re-encode is invisible on an ordinary photograph and low enough that the file does not balloon. It has to be read before the batch starts, so set it first — changing it later applies to the next files you add, not the ones already converted.

Worth being aware of: HEIC is itself a lossy format, so converting to JPG is a second generation encode. One generation at 92 is not something you can see. Repeatedly editing and re-saving a JPG is, and that is the case for keeping the originals rather than treating the converted copies as your archive. If you are converting for an upload form with a hard size cap, dropping to the low 80s usually saves far more bytes than it costs in visible quality.

If a specific KB limit is the actual problem — 240 KB for a US visa photo, 2 MB for many job applications — converting at a guessed quality is the slow way round. The image compressor targets a size directly, and there is a walkthrough for the common case in how to compress an image to 200KB.

Or stop the iPhone from producing HEIC at all

If you convert the same photos every week, the better fix is upstream. On the phone, Settings › Camera › Formats › Most Compatible makes the camera capture JPG from then on, at roughly double the storage per photo. It does not touch the HEIC files already in your library.

Separately, Settings › Photos › Transfer to Mac or PC › Automatic converts on the way out when you plug into a computer, while Keep Originals sends the HEIC untouched. A lot of people who think their phone is broken have this set to Keep Originals and a Windows machine on the other end.

Both settings, with the trade-offs and the reason Apple switched in the first place, are covered in why your iPhone saves photos as HEIC and HEIC vs JPG.